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Custom Steampunk Leatherware and More

Custom Steampunk Leatherware and More​


Leather Care & Leather Care Products

Leather is a natural product, made of the tanned skin of an animal. Most commercial leather is made from cows, pigs, goats, and sheep; also from more exotic animals such as alligators, ostriches, and kangaroos, stingrays. While I understand the controversy, and the fact that it would seem that this is not done in a "humane way" as some websites would lead you to believe, I purchase my leather from a known seller in the US. Tandy Leather and Springfield are the only ones I use at present. If you want to know where that leather comes from, please contact them.

If you have a leather piece that is worn out, or has issues, please scroll down and read, I have gathered information form various websites and other sellers to bring you a good reference list that can help clean, restore, and rejuvenate your item. If a replacement, or repair is needed, please contact us for that inquiry.

Leather deteriorates largely by four means

  1. Oxidation is most readily seen in very old dry leather, with surface cracking and flaking, and over-all weakness. Oxidation will eventually turn leather to dust. It is inhibited by a thorough impregnation with an inert dressing which coats the fibres. Leather items should not be sealed in a display case and forgotten - they must be kept full of dressing.
  2. Chemical damage can be through the effect of ultraviolet light, ozone, acid from sulphurous and nitrous pollutants in the air, or through chemical action following treatment with tallow or neatsfoot oil compounds. Both oxidation and chemical damage occur faster at higher temperatures. Leather should be stored away from heat, and not needlessly exposed to sunlight.
  3. Internal chafing or breaking of fibres occurs when dry leather is flexed. A lubricant is essential to allow the fibres to slide one against the other. Dry leather should not be flexed prior to thorough lubrication.
  4. Abrasion can be external, from rubbing on the outside, or internal from dirt particles ground into the leather.

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How do I take care of this new leather item?


Try to handle leather with clean hands to prevent too much oil buildup. Leather is susceptible to absorbing grease and oils, wipe the surface of the leather with a damp white cotton cloth, but be careful not to use too much water, because leather takes time to dry. If it does become wet, let air dry in a cool dry place, not in the sun.

Use only cleaners made for leather

Apply using a circular motion and wipe off with a slightly damp cloth so as not to clog the pores of the leather. Applying leather cleaning soap one or two times a year should keep your leather clean. Some cleaners include: Leather Honey, Horseman’s One step Leather Cleaner, Fiebing’s Liquid Glycerin Saddle Soap, Dr. Jackson’s Leather Cleaner. Please do not use Neatsfoot Oil as it may remove some of the acrylic paint or dye.

Link for cleaner: Saddle Soap

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What can I safely use to clean the leather?

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Help! My leather is dried and starting to crack, how do I get it to look new?


Leather gets dry over time and will lose flexibility. If the item you bought is meant to bend, fold or move, it is good care to use leather conditioner on the item at least once a year after cleaning. If you store your item for a while and it seems dry and brittle, do not bend until you condition it and let the conditioner set in and penetrate beyond the surface. Do not use conditioner on patent leather items. Do condition more than once a year.

Stain Removal

Organic stains from food or blood can often be removed with chalk powder. Crush white chalk, let it sit on the stain overnight and dust it off with a clean cloth.

If the stain is from water, it may be wise to wet the leather completely and let dry in a warm place with plenty of air flow.

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How do I remove a stain from this leather?

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Can I waterproof this leather to use outdoors?

Use Leather Waterproofing Products only

If your item will see a lot of the great outdoors, such as arm guards, quivers, belts, bracers, and some cases, it would be good to give it a waterproofing treatment at least 2 times a year. Fiebing’s Snow Proof paste is great for this; just apply using a clean cloth and buff on covering any exposed areas. A leather waterproofing spray is also a good alternative. Just be sure to follow the instructions on the canister.

Stitching Leather By Hand or Machine

The items I sell are mainly hand stitched using nylon wax covered thread. If you see it start to come apart, please let me know and I will guide you through the proper way to either correct the situation or take the item back and repair it for a small fee. As our policies dictate, the buyer will be responsible for the shipping costs. Do not try to run your item through a regular sewing machine as it may end up damaging the machine.

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Its coming apart, some of the stitching is broken, can I sew it?

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My item has become faded, the color is gone, can I just spray paint it?

Leather Paint and Leather Dyes

I use Feibing’s water based dye, acrylic paints made specifically for leather and other products. If for some reason the color starts to come off, or wear away, please note that this is normal. Leather is the skin of the animal and the dyes and paint only go a certain depth into the material especially if made using veg tanned leather. If the item was made using Chrome Tanned leather (just ask us which was used) then the color is chemically infused in the entire thickness and will not come off. If it needs retouching, please contact us, for that.

Somethings to Avoid

Avoid cleaning products with alcohol, turpentine or other mineral spirits as they will discolor and dry out leather.

Never allow water to soak into your leather for too long. If the leather does get totally wet, do not use a hair dryer on it. Instead, absorb as much water as possible with a thick microfiber hand towel and allow it to air dry in a warm well ventilated or fanned area. Then, condition it again and store it in a dry cool place. If the item is a case, place newspaper or paper towel inside, to help as it dries while changing the paper after a few hours.

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Can I use this alcohol stuff on it, they says it is strong stuff?

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I like to stay organized, can I store leather in a plastic bag or bin?

Best Storage Practices

Please Do NOT store your leather items in a sealed plastic bag or bin for too long. Relative moisture and air can harm the leather. As well as letting an item dry for too long; too much humidity can cause rotting. Use paper or cardboard box instead, and check on the items at least once a year. Sweat from the body will add water and salt to the leather. Be sure to use a conditioner and a sealer to help maintain it.